My Electrical/electronic whiz hubby Installed this in a power panel he built for the RV we are building to protect our electronic equipment from power drops and surges as well as wiring anomalies that are sometimes found on the power supplies at RV parks. He built it into a 12" x 12" x 6" NEMA 1 panel along with a 30 amp/2-circuit breaker panel and it really works perfectly. We used it several times on a recent trip and it located a reversed neutral in one park and it shut down in another due to low voltage (under 104 VAC) which protected our A/C system....so it probably already paid for itself!

The LED readout monitors voltage, Hertz (cycles), current usage and faults and mounts remotely, although he put the monitor in the cover of the panel of ours.

The unit powers up immediately when the shore power is connected and turned on and the relay drops out if a fault is detected. He understands exactly how this works as he did electrical and electronic work for the Postal Service for over 30 years and was an electrician before that.

He said the instructions for installation were clear and easy to follow, and he chose the built-in model instead of the one Progressive makes that lugs in outside because hard-wired in, this is impossible to steal and these are not cheap!

It powers everything we have with ease and hasn't failed us.

My only gripe is that as soon as power is hooked up you can hear a very faint buzz coming form the panel but not loud enough to keep us awake at night with the panel colsed up. He said it's normal as power relays always hum as they work, so if he's not worried I'm okay with it.

I know this is the best product for this use as he researches everything he buys and if this wasn't the best deal he would have bought something else!

I hardwired this into the bottom of a cabinet near where the power cord comes into the RV. I then put the display up at high level where I can see it even from across the camper while sitting or standing. It works absolutely great at both protecting the camper and providing information on power usage and reliability. It has helped me to know how much power each of our appliances and devices take, which has proven to be incredibly helpful when running the air conditioner and close to the maximum of a 30 amp site.

One added tidbit that I will share is that I took the time in trouble to install this using two 30 amp locking plugs so that if the unit ever fails, I can simply bypass it by unplugging the male on one end and the female on the other from the unit and then connecting those two together to bypass this device. It cost me a little bit more money to buy those plugs and the time to do that, but I realized if this device ever failed when I was on a trip and it prevented me from using the RV, I would want to be able to bypass it. This allows me to do that very quickly and very easily.

This is a really well-built product from a US-based company that really stands behind their product. I had a question/issue when installing and reached out to their tech support and got a super-fast response, with them sending out a part quickly to get me up and running (it was a problem I caused, not with the product quality). As far as the surge protector/EMS itself goes, it's solidly built and comes with clear instructions and all small parts needed for installation. It's a fairly easy install for anyone who is moderately handy and this hardwired, inline unit is definitely an upgrade from the external "dog bone" style of surge protector. A nice feature is that the surge protection board is separate from the rest of the internal wiring, so if it does get fried doing it's job you can just order a new board from Progressive Industries and swap it out without needing to replace the whole unit. The remote display is also a nice feature, and it clearly shows the status and quality of your electric feed. The remote has a switch that allows the incoming feed to bypass the EMS in case there is any issue with the box's wiring, so as to keep you up and running on the off chance that something goes awry (which probably means the EMS did it's job and protected your system from some electric gremlins).

The hardest part of installing the HW30C is deciding where to put it. The rest of the installation is straightforward, with plenty of text and pictures. Tech support phone numbers are shown in the instructions, and I called before removing the time delay jumper to be sure I was removing the correct part. The phone was answered almost immediately, and the assistant was very helpful. Based on other comments I see here of folks returning the product due to missing parts, I'd recommend reading ALL of the instructions before starting the install. Only 2 screws are used to hold the cover in place during shipment. The rest, along with all other parts, are contained inside the unit in plastic bags and bubble wrap. One caveat - I say the installation is easy, but what's easy for some is impossible for others. I'f you're capable of installing lighting and switch fixtures in your house, you'll have no trouble. Otherwise, consider having someone else install this product.

I chose to remove my trailer's wire junction box near the external plug-in point and replace it with the surge protector. The large round cord that feeds the trailer's circuits contains flexible, stranded wires, and installation was easy following instructions and pictures. The inductive amp pickup goes over the black wire with the arrow side facing the contactor. The short cord that runs from the trailer's power-in receptacle to the junction box may be (mine was) identical to what's in your house walls; 12-3 solid copper that's very stiff and hard to manipulate. Use a needle nosed pliers to bend a loop into the end of the ground wire, and secure that loop directly to the ground buss bar using a provided screw and nut. The black and white solid wires will give far less trouble if you use your pliers to bend the wires into a zig-zag pattern as necessary, similar to a wiring diagram, so that the bare ends slip easily into the slots of the contactor. Install the lid, connect the remote wire to the phone jack, and secure the unit in the location you chose using four screws (not provided). You'll need to massage the cord with solid wires as you place the unit to avoid undue strain on the unit's plastic chassis.

I chose to place the remote display in the same area where the unit is installed, so I can monitor the hookup as soon as I plug in and disconnect if there's an issue. If a person wanted to monitor the volts, amps, etc. continuously, a second remote can be installed inside the coach. This shouldn't be necessary, as the product will shut down power if a bad situation develops, and you can then go outside and check the error code on the display.

Regarding the time delay jumper, the instructions state to remove it to provide a 136 second delay between pedestal connection and power to the coach if your AC unit doesn't have a built-in time delay. Mine doesn't, so I pulled the jumper. Upon plugging in at the pedestal, the display scrolled properly and showed zero amps being used, and a voltmeter inside the coach showed zero voltage. 136 seconds later, I heard the contactor snap closed, and all AC items in the coach were powered. Whether you install this yourself or pay someone to do it, it's a worthwhile investment that'll pay for itself ten times over the first time you plug into a 115V pedestal that's been wired for 240V.

We've had the HW30C for over a year now. So far so good.

I can't add too much to what has already been said in the other reviews. This unit does what it is designed to do.

In our case, I had already removed the shore power cord from the j-box. I ran it over to an inverter I had installed in a large storage compartment on the passenger side of the rig. That made the installation of the HW30C relatively easy. I used 3M VHB tape to install it to the top of the inverter in a location that did not require tight bends in the power cord, so there's no stress on the unit or the cable.

In some trailers and RVs installation can be more difficult due to working in tight spaces.

One suggestion I have for Progressive Industries would be to add a switch to the remote display to enable users to turn it off if desired. This isn't a big deal. Many people are not bothered/distracted by the scrolling display, and those that are usually make a little "cover flap" for the display from heavy paper.

I like being able to see voltage and amps at a glance. That helps a lot when, for example, you are staying at someone's house and have a limited amount of power available -- usually 15 or 20 amps. Keeping an eye on the current can prevent tripped breakers.

[UPDATE 7/20/2017]:

Due to a recent failure, I've reduced my rating -- from 5 stars to 4.

The contactor and/or the lug connections began arcing and got hot enough to visibly warp the cover (which was how we were alerted to the arcing problem). PI sent a new cover and contactor.

PI / RV Safety Accessories has been OK to deal with, but unfortunately they rarely replace the entire unit, just components. It is up to the customer to do the repair or pay to have it done. Not the best warranty service, but better than nothing.

The description here on Amazon says, "Replacement parts are simply plug-and-play, making repairs quick and easy." That's misleading. It may apply to the PC boards, but not the contactor. I'm an electro-mechanical tech, so replacing the contactor reminded me of what I did 5 days a week, for 27+ years, but an RV owner without mechanical/electrical skills might find it challenging.

One particularly difficult aspect of the job was removing the small wires that are terminated with spade lugs. They were/are t-i-g-h-t! I finally decided to leave them attached to the male terminals and transfer the entire assembly from the old contactor to the new one.

I don't mean to make the job into more than it was, but I would not expect the 'average' RV owner to perform the work. At the very least, I'd think PI would give the customer the option to return the unit for repair or replacement. That would increase customer satisfaction and reduce any potential liability for PI.

The HW30C is a good unit, and I remain glad that we bought it.

BTW -- the contactor is actually rated for forty amps (40A) continuous current flow. It's nice to see components over-rated, rather than stretched right to their max limit.

Works exactly as intended. It’s has detected under voltage a couple times which can be an annoying experience but the device is doing what it is supposed to and protecting the trailer but shutting off power. Has worked reliably for 8 years, the remote display is extremely valuable as well since you can see your current draw and can manage appliance usage

I reluctantly purchased this for my 1992 Pace Arrow that I have been refurbing. I was not going to buy it yet because the campground we were to be staying at for our maiden voyage has brand new pedestals and wiring throughout. At the last minute, I caved and bought the EMS because I had just installed new flat screen tvs, Blueray players and other new electronics. I just felt like I should protect my investments.

Installing the EMS was easier than I expected. There was a junction box in the cable cubby already so I removed it and replaced it with the EMS. I did relocate it to the rear of the cable cubby just to make putting the cable in and out easier. I routed the remote display to the neighboring compartment that is under the same door and mounted it to the door so that it is easy to see when the door is open. I know the general consensus is to mount the remote display inside the RV but there was no easy way to do this and I think it may be better to be able to see what you have while hooking up the power anyway.

Our very first trip in the RV was great except that the first night the main breaker kept tripping every hour or so. I was sure it was a bad breaker (considering that it is 25 years old). When I went to swap out the breaker, the main hot wire just fell out as it was not tightened at all. I decided to leave the existing breaker in place and just tightened all the connection on all breakers and terminals which were all looser than I would like. This solved the problem for a few hours but then the EMS shut down the whole RV. When the power came back on, I went out to watch the display and saw that it was hovering between 108 and 112 volts. It is almost certain that it was dipping below 108 occasionally which is what shut down the EMS and was adding extra amperage to the loose terminals.

The pedestal next to us was vacant so I plugged into that one and it was hanging in at around 118 volts. After that, everything was much happier. Our fridge ran colder, the breakers stopped tripping and the EMS did not shut down the camper anymore. Even our golf cart charger worked better as it was pegged out while charging on the other pedestal.

I now know that if I see anything below 110, I need to regroup and ask for a new spot or a repair to the pedestal.

Yes, the Progressive Industries hard-wired, 30 amp EMS (Electrical Management System; model EMS-LCHW30 has no remote display; HW30C has remote display) is a little pricey, but if you're typically one who values good insurance (of all kinds), then you'll love this unit! It presents peace-of-mind---peace-of-mind that nearly ALL electrical gremlins (voltage, frequency, and wiring deviations) will not eat your RV's expensive appliances and gadgets while you're asleep or away.

It took me a while to decide whether to purchase the portable (EMS-PT30C) or hard-wired unit. Obviously, the portable unit is completely portable and can be used on any RV. Also, no installation is required--you can be up and protected in only seconds. However, potential theft and convenience of use swayed me to go with the hard-wired unit. The hard-wired unit is theft-proof (assuming you install it inside your RV). The remote display (only available with the remote version of the hard-wired unit) displays realtime, voltage, current draw, line frequency, and error history (current and one previous event) in the comfort of your RV. The hard-wired version without the remote display does display the same information, but it can only be viewed on the EMS unit itself.

Installation instructions are helpful, clear and also include a few pictures to clarify some of the steps. Assuming you have easy access to the incoming AC in your RV and sufficient space nearby to place the EMS unit, then the installation should be fairly straighforward. If not, then the installation could be much more of a challenge.

For those that may use a generator with this EMS, chances are your generator has a floating ground (most newer inverter generators made by Honda, Yamaha, etc. have floating grounds). The EMS will return an E2, open ground, error. The EMS will not allow any power to your RV with this error. You have two options to correct this situation. One, you can turn OFF EMS protection (via a switch located on the remote display) and operate your generator with no EMS protection. Or, two, you can insert a "bonding" plug (bonds the generator's ground & neutral together) in one of the generator's 110 volt outlets so you can operate your generator without having to turn off all EMS protection. The bonding plug is somewhat controversial. I'd suggest googling the pros and cons of doing so beforehand so you can make an informed and safe decision.

Lastly, just want to mention that a lot of folks assume they're protected from all electrical gremlins by using a "simple" surge protector that typically costs $75-$125. Not true! A "simple" surge protector only offers protection from "momentary" (less than a second) voltage spikes resulting from lightening, nearby switches, or appliances. A "simple" surge protector offers absolutely NO (zero) protection against "continuous" over/under-voltage situations and/or serious wiring problems one may encounter in many RV parks. Only the more expensive Progressive Industries EMS (Electrical Management System) provides this nearly "complete" electrical protection (in addition to "simple" surge protection) for your RV.

Très bon produit facile à installer. C’est le deuxième que j’achète car j’ai acquis un nouveau VR et cet accessoire m’apparaît indispensable pour protéger les appareils électroniques, particulièrement le four microonde. L’électricité varie beaucoup dans un camping et le voltage trop bas endommage et ruine les appareils électroniques. Cet appareil surveille sans cesse le courant électrique et prévient les dommages. Un peu cher mais très efficace. Je le recommande.

Product was as advertised and easy to install. Put it on a motorhome and it works great!

After never using any kind of surge protection on our first 3 RV's and luckily not having any problems, on our latest, I wanted to make sure I gave my electrical system its best chance for longevity and trouble free performance. Having read about others' unfortunate, unsafe and expensive experiences with questionable power sources at some RV parks and campgrounds I thought I should use some kind of surge protection. I spent some time on the Internet forums reading about surge protectors and EMS devices, I determined that the best way to go for me would be to use a hardwired EMS unit. That would mean that I would not have to concern myself with the inherent theft/security risk of a plug in type and it would always be in line checking for safe power to my RV without any extra steps at each change of campsite. The Progressive Industries HW30C checked all of my boxes and had the advantage of having a remote mount meter to read out incoming voltage, incoming current in amperes, AC frequency and also indicating a list of possible problems that might arise. A huge bonus is that it has a lifetime warranty!

I installed my unit in an unused space below the electrical cord storage area in my 5th wheel and used 2 male and 2 female Leviton 30 amp generator type twist plugs so that if I ever have a failure of the HW30C, I can always just take it out of the line and reconnect my plugs - a one minute job.

Since my installation, I have not had any "bad" power connections but it has been interesting to note the current use on the remote readout when the A/C unit or electric hot water tank or microwave are in operation. I can only assume that if and when the time comes that I connect to a "bad" power supply, the unit will not allow unsafe or potentially damaging power into my RV.

The HW30C is a well built unit, manufactured in the USA with residential quality electrical connections and strain reliefs. Its modest size allows for a wide and varied choice of mounting locations, and the remote meter connects with a data cable that is similar in appearance to a phone cord.

I look forward to years of trouble free protection from my HW30C!

Bought this after having a fried cable at one campground during the summer. While I can't say this will prevent a massive electrical failure in my RV, I am pretty confident its doing what it says. We plugged the trailer into a less than sufficient extension cord and immediately the remote showed the low voltage indicator. It shows the current pull which is great to see how close you are to hitting the maximum and make sure you aren't nearing the limit. I highly recommend. Like others have said, my main reason for choosing this model was that its inside your RV and not possible to forget it when packing up or getting it stolen. I installed it in under an hour. Just make sure to unplug from the main power and disconnect your battery to prevent getting electrocuted. If you aren't sure, pay someone professional to do it. Better safe than dead.

The CTs will have a front and a back. The back will be completely flat, while the front will have a lip all along the arched edge of the coil. The front (side with the lip) would face the contactor.